June 2024 | Vol 12
A SEVEN-DAY DOLCE VITA by SAILING BOAT
words & photos Kristina Avdeeva
IG:@seasouldiary
SALERNO
Our ‘dolce vita’ along the Costiera Amalfitana began with a stunning view of Salerno, visible through the windows of the Dimora Copeta. With high ceilings decorated with original frescoes, Dimora Copeta, one of the apartments managed by Starhost, features cozy rooms, a kitchen with a terrace, antiques, and a terracotta floor restored by Fornace de Martino. Dimora Copeta's biggest advantage is its location in Old Town. Salerno Cathedral and the magnificent ancient building that housed the Scuola Medica Salernitana, the first and most important medical institution of the Middle Ages, are a short walk away. So, it would be impossible not to go to Hostaria il Brigante for lunch, Landi Pasticceria for dessert and amazing pizzas, and Pizzeria Criscemunno for dinner on its incredible terrace. And finally, we set off from here to Marina di Areci for our seven-day sailing trip.
AMALFI + ATRANI + RAVELLO
Atrani and Amalfi are 10 miles from Salerno. You can anchor your sail across the Collegiate Santa Maria Maddalena and Spaggia di Atrani. Another alternative is to go beyond the promontory and immerse yourself in the hustle and bustle of Amalfi, popular with tourists. No big marina is located here, only small piers. It is less than an hour's walk from here to Atrani. After exploring both small towns, you have two scenarios to continue the day. The easy one is to go back, eat lemon ice cream and get lost in the picturesque maze of streets. The more interesting and difficult one - if the hike doesn't scare you - is to challenge yourself and climb up the Dragon River valley to Ravello! The reward for this accomplishment is the view from above.
Described as the "city of music", Ravello has plenty of lovely villas, including Villa Ruffolo. And, of course, the Oscar Niemeyer Auditorium, built by the famous Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer in the shape of an eye looking out over the lush rocky hills with the shimmering sea and sky as a backdrop. The famous architect designed the building for his close friend Domenico De Masi, the president of the Ravello music festival. The auditorium possesses an emotional and powerful poetic energy that recalls some of the sketches by Le Corbusier, with whom Niemeyer worked in the 30s.
One of the things you must experience when you go to Amalfi is watching the bells of the Duomo di Amalfi tower against the backdrop of the sunset. And if you book Taverna Buonvicino in advance, you have the chance to hear a private piano solo from the owner.
ISCHIA
After soaking up the bustle of the city, we head to the majestic Castle of Aragon near the island of Ischia. It is one of the longest passes on the route. From here, you can immediately get an idea of the extent of the Bay of Naples.
Ischia offers hot springs, fertile soils, and luxurious beaches. Golden Age Hollywood was once attracted to this place. In more run-down corners, "The Talented Mr. Ripley" was filmed. Nowadays, Neapolitans visit here for a weekend of fun on the beach and tourists to seek youth and health in the hot springs.
As we were well enough hydrated on the sailboat, we went to the Giardini la Mortella Botanical Garden, located in the northwest of the island and created by the composer Sir William Walton and his wife. This masterpiece garden was lovingly created over the course of more than 30 years from pathways, vines, hydrangeas, and other magnificent rare plants. The abandoned villa of Italian director Luchino Visconti is also hidden in the garden.