May 2025 | VOL 15
SEYCHELLES
words Kristina Avdeeva
photos Kristina Avdeeva + Niko Tsarev
“Ladies and gentlemen, this is your captain speaking. We’ve just crossed the equator, marking our journey into the Southern Hemisphere. In about an hour, we’ll begin our descent into Mahé, where the turquoise waters and lush landscapes of the Seychelles await. Sit back, relax, and enjoy this beautiful flight.”
Can a morning be more delightful than waking up to this phrase instead of an alarm clock? With a hot coffee in hand and the endless Indian Ocean bathed in the embrace of the rising sun outside the airplane window, it feels like the perfect beginning to an unforgettable journey.
MAHÉ, FOUR SEASONS HOTEL
Raindrops patter against the hood of the car as it carries us south from the airport toward the Four Seasons resort on Mahé. Along the way, it feels as though we’re driving through a massive botanical garden. The rain enhances the greenery, making it so vivid and surreal that it seems almost artificial.
The plan is simple: a few days of blending water adventures with leisurely relaxation and candlelit dinners by the beach before venturing into the untamed wilderness of the islands.
Arriving at Four Seasons Mahé, you are instantly immersed in the harmony of luxury and nature. The villas, tucked away on the hillside, feel like private sanctuaries, each with its own pool and breathtaking views of Petite Anse Bay. Yet the true hallmark of this place is its unparalleled, world-class hospitality—an experience so exceptional, it’s worth crossing an entire ocean for. Four Seasons Mahé is not just a destination; it’s a state of being. Here, there is no division between humans and nature. Every corner of this tropical labyrinth is alive, breathing, and full of wonder.
The surrounding forest thrives with life. Among its residents, the Seychelles blue pigeon stands out, often spotted near the villas or along the pathways. One morning, as I sipped coffee on the terrace, a pigeon landed nearby, its iridescent feathers shimmering against the lush greenery—a gentle reminder of the joy found in life’s small moments.
BOAT LIFE
What if a comfortable sailing catamaran became our personal drifting island, offering the freedom to explore the Seychelles at our own pace, letting the wind decide our course? Drifting with the currents, spending a week in the company of curious travelers, we delve into the heart of the inner granite islands: Curieuse, Praslin, La Digue, Coco, Moyenne, and a few hidden gems along the way.
CURIEUSE
Flying fish leap out of the water, their tiny bodies astonishingly swift as they outpace our Lagoon 46 catamaran. Using their rear fins like propellers, they propel themselves far ahead, leaving a fleeting wake behind them. Terns dive into the water, and shearwaters cross our course in graceful arcs. On the horizon, the Curieuse Marine National Park comes into view—the first stop on our route as we sail through the channel between Praslin and La Digue. It feels as though we’ve passed through the gates of paradise, entering a realm of silence and stillness.
This very feeling inspired Jacques Cousteau’s iconic film The Silent World, dedicated to the Seychelles. And rightly so! Such pristine air and the unspoiled voice of nature can only be found here. If zoological museums once showcased rare species of flora and fauna, they should now add to their collections—pure air and untouched wilderness.
Curieuse is home to one of Seychelles’ most iconic inhabitants: the Aldabra giant tortoises. Hundreds roam freely across the island, their slow, deliberate movements a stark contrast to the ocean’s lively energy. Watching these gentle giants in their natural habitat is a humbling experience. Their ancient shells seem to carry the weight of time itself, as if they’ve witnessed Earth’s secrets long before humans arrived. The island’s red soil, unique mangrove forests, and quiet lagoons create a sanctuary for these remarkable creatures, reminding us of nature’s incredible resilience.
PRASLIN
Next on the route is Praslin, home to the legendary Vallée de Mai, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the only place on Earth where the rare coco de mer palms grow. These ancient trees produce the world’s largest seeds, shaped like a curvaceous human form, adding an air of mystique to the forest. Walking through Vallée de Mai is like stepping into a primeval world, where the canopy filters sunlight into golden beams and the rustle of palm fronds echoes through the stillness. Adding to the magic, you may spot the elusive Seychelles black parrot, a bird as rare as the forest it calls home.
COCO ISLAND
From Praslin, we set sail to tiny yet mesmerizing Coco Island, a jewel in Seychelles’ crown. Surrounded by a vibrant coral reef, it’s a haven for snorkelers and divers alike. Beneath the crystal-clear waters, schools of parrotfish, angelfish, and butterflyfish glide among coral gardens, creating an underwater kaleidoscope of colors.
It was here that we had one of the most magical encounters of our journey—a meeting with two sea turtles gliding gracefully through the shallows. One of them, curious and unbothered by our presence, seemed to invite us into its world. As we swam alongside, it paused, allowing me to mimic a dance with its gentle movements. This unspoken connection felt like sharing a secret known only to the sea.
LA DIGUE
Our journey continues to La Digue, an island famed for its cycling trails and absence of cars. Once, there were only a couple of trucks here; now, a growing fleet of golf buggies shuttles tourists arriving by ferry. A few hundred meters from the port, the true adventure begins, weaving through coconut plantations, sleepy micro-villages, and winding paths where the only sound is the distant crash of waves. La Digue is one place we sometimes skip visiting ashore, yet we never miss anchoring nearby for a midday stop. From here, we access the island’s most hidden treasures—secluded beaches like Anse Marron, reachable only by boat or a daring hike. May they remain untouched, preserved as quiet sanctuaries where nature reigns supreme.
DESROCHES, FOUR SEASONS RESORT
Beyond the granite islands, our journey extends to the enchanting Amirante group, a remote coral atoll chain southwest of Mahé. Among them, Desroches Island stands out like a rare pearl. After two weeks under sail, we reached Desroches by plane—a transition from the rhythm of the sea to the hum of engines.
With 14 kilometers of pristine coastline fringed by coconut palms, Desroches is a diver’s paradise, its vibrant reefs teeming with marine life. The Four Seasons Resort here redefines barefoot luxury. Nestled among lush vegetation, each villa offers privacy, with private pools and direct beach access. Yet what truly sets this retreat apart is its harmony with nature, from turtle conservation efforts to marine preservation initiatives.
